What wine writers keep to themselves (by theglobeandmail.com)

Posted: December 8, 2012 by wynmaker in Alcohol, Wine, World wine news
Tags: , , , , , ,

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In The New Yorker magazine years ago, the brilliant Montreal-raised American writer Adam Gopnik chided people in my line of work for a glaring failure. “Remarkably,” he wrote, “nowhere in wine writing … would a Martian learn that the first reason people drink wine is to get drunk.” It was, I think, an exaggeration. I know people who enthuse about wine but rarely court alcohol’s buzz. Some are readers of this column who have declared that they always stop after a glass or two.

 

But I take his point. We scribes give wide berth to the subject of alcohol. We’re pompous sophisticates – or at least we feel compelled to cultivate that image to advance our credibility (shame on us). Inebriation is for the vodka-cooler crowd, not for connoisseurs who “understand” Volnay. And what columnist wants to remind the world about the social costs of alcohol abuse? Wine columns are supposed to be about hedonism.

There is hedonism in today’s tasting notes, and I don’t want to end on a downer. But it struck me at a recent tasting – what with the holidays approaching – that the alcohol-by-volume spread from one wine to another can be jarring. One terrific white from Germany, Dr. Pauly, weighed in at 8 per cent, while Darioush Duel 2007 from Napa (which I didn’t love) tipped the scale at 16.4. You can drink six glasses of the former and be no less fit to drive than someone consuming three of the latter.

Read on …

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