As 2013 rolls in, 5 themes for change in wine (by Jon Bonné)

Posted: January 17, 2013 by wynmaker in Wine, World wine news
Tags: , , , ,

 

It’s a new year and, for wine lovers, an auspicious one at that.

After austerity measures in recent years, there’s a desire to make this a year when we drink well again.

Here, then, are my five themes to watch in 2013:

1. Rewriting expectations:

The wine industry has long traded on certain beliefs about quality and style. But rules are quietly being rewritten all over. The conversation has changed.

In California, the drumbeat of the new has been approaching for at least three years. This year it hits the mainstream.

Faithful readers have seen it in these pages for a while, but even by last summer it was becoming clear that a different story line for California wine (our Winemakers of the Year being a good example: bit.ly/VgPsLO) was gaining credence not just in San Francisco or New York, but across the country.

Similar shifts are taking place around the world. France has a burgeoning avant-garde, in Beaujolais and the Loire and little-known regional appellations – vintners who are stepping in as Bordeaux and Burgundy give in to the whims of the rich and aspirational.

Germany is reveling in young producers, people like A.J. Adam and Florian Lauer, as conversant with dry styles as they are with sweet.

The maturing of Austria’s industry (bit.ly/VHwBqF) is yielding wines of unmistakable purity. Even Australia is revising its story line, highlighting finesse where obvious flavor once squatted. Never before has it been so possible to love wine without having to educate yourself about old expectations.
Read on …

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